Editor’s note: Chris Bartlett contributed to this column
Fall is here and many are planning getaways. Some of us choose to bypass summer vacations awaiting autumn, when traffic on roads is not bumper-to-bumper, hotel rates have fallen, and the scenery is picturesque, especially in New England where the brilliance of leaves changing colors takes center stage.
New Haven, Conn., where I have lived for 40 years, is the gateway to New England and is more than worthy of a stopover on the way to other New England states, or better yet, make the Elm City your destination for a getaway.
There’s so much to do and see, however, sometimes, we think the grass is greener (or should I say, the foliage is more vibrant) elsewhere. I realized that is not true while driving locally last week, noticing the beauty of fall emerging here.
Despite its important blend of history, culture, art, nature, events and festivals, in addition to the diverse cuisine; quite often, New Haven is only recognized for its pizza. As a matter of fact, on May 22, New Haven became the official Pizza Capital of the United States (bit.ly/3ZNngXA).
Pizza is only one facet of the city’s food culture. We’ll get into the food scene, and some of my favorite eateries and food establishments, in a bit.
Not to be missed
In the meantime, here are several one-of-a-kind and fantastic New Haven places not to be missed when visiting our very walkable city:
• Clearly, Yale University has a huge presence in the city. And this time of year, the surrounding gothic architecture is ”seasoned” with the brilliance of trees turning radiant shades of yellow, orange and red, all awaiting your camera’s lens to capture its splendid beauty. This one-hour tour features and teaches the rich history of Yale: https://visitorcenter.yale.edu/tours.
• Make sure your visit includes a walk up East Rock Park, where you can capture breathtaking views of New Haven enrobed in spectacular foliage from the park’s summit: https://ctvisit.com/listings/east-rock-park.
• Museums: The Yale University Art Gallery is the oldest college art museum in the U.S. https://artgallery.yale.edu.
• Yale Center for British Art (https://britishart.yale.edu) is the largest museum outside of the United Kingdom devoted to British art. (Currently closed for renovation).
• Yale Peabody Museum, https://peabody.yale.edu. The Great Hall of Dinosaurs is a both a popular and impressive exhibit. This museum recently reopened after a multi-year, massive renovation and is now free-forever to all, however reservations are required.
• The Knights of Columbus international headquarters is in New Haven. A visit to the museum educates about its history and achievements of the world’s largest Catholic fraternal organization. https://Bit.ly/3ZFrrVc.
• While visiting New Haven, take a short drive (about 15 minutes) to the PEZ Visitor Center. Adults and kids alike will enjoy seeing the largest collection of PEZ memorabilia on public display in the world. Take a glimpse into the production area and learn about this iconic candy that was first created in Vienna, Austria, in 1927. https://bit.ly/3N0pWtt.
• Pick your own pumpkins at Lyman Orchards (a 25-minute drive from New Haven), https://bit.ly/4efgZbw. After picking the perfect pumpkin, enjoy a quick bite at Lyman’s farm market.
• Lighthouse Point Park is a New Haven treasure. Located on the waterfront, with stunning views of Long Island Sound, it is famous for its historic lighthouse built in 1845 and a classic carousel built in 1916. Both treasures are listed on the National Registry of Historic Places. Take a stroll on the beach or hiking trails, bit.ly/3Y4mILw, and enjoy the beauty of nature.
• For more things to do in and around New Haven, go to https://visitnewhaven.com.
Explore the diverse food scene
And now, it’s time for exploring some of New Haven’s diverse food scene. I’m often asked what my favorite pizza place is. Of course, New Haven is known for a couple of historic, and now famous, ones…Pepe’s and Sally’s.
Though newer to the scene (since 1991), BAR is known for their brick-oven, mashed potato and bacon pizza, and is one of my favorites. Not only is it highly respected alongside the Big Three in New Haven, but it also happens to haven been a pioneer in the CT craft beer movement.
And if that isn’t enough, there is a super-popular nightclub in the back room of its space. Modern (since 1911 and in the Big Three) is another classic, local favorite with excellent pies, and newish to the scene is Zeneli, which offers delicious, artisan-style pizza and more in a welcoming, restaurant setting.
When you need a pick-me-up, check out Willoughby’s Coffee and Tea with two locations in the city. Around since 1985, they have proven themselves by roasting quality beans to perfection and brewing second-to-none coffee. For tea drinkers, their selection is extensive.
When it comes time for lunch, or you’re craving for a decadent pastry, G Café, with three locations in the city, is the place you need to check out. The atmosphere and vibe, coupled with a fabulous selection and product quality sets G Café apart.
You’ll want to take home an artisan bread to enjoy at home. The “Josephine,” made with whole wheat sourdough is a favorite. For a sweeter loaf, the “Cramb” has tart cranberries and crunchy walnuts. If your visit is around the holidays, you must indulge in their fabulous panettone and stollen; perfect for gift giving.
When I’m in the mood for a Cuban sandwich, it’s Soul de Cuba Café. The cozy restaurant, with authentic Afro-Cuban art surrounding the dining room, has been a favorite for two decades. The cozy six-seat bar serves up refreshing Mojitos as well as other Cuban cocktails and libations. Everything here is fresh and delicious, and served with passion and purpose.
Until I tried Wow! Tika, Indian cuisine wasn’t on my radar. It has now been added as a stop on Worth Tasting (Worthtasting.co), the culinary tour of New Haven (April- December) that I co-host. Here, Indian street food cuisine is approachable to diners because it is customizable; ingredients spice level, etc., are chosen by the guest.
The accommodating staff explains the ingredients, so the bowl is mixed and matched to your preference. The mango lassi is rich yet refreshing. This place gets voted a favorite stop by tour guests every time we eat here.
“An Authentic Slice of Ireland” can be found in New Haven at Trinity Bar, where executive chef and owner Shane Carty serves up mouthwatering, traditional Irish fare. The Shepherd’s Pie and the Craft Beer Corned Beef Reuben are superb. The extensive beer list is impressive and needs to be sampled.
The menu at Anaya Sushi & Ramen is extensive. From scrumptious soups, a variety of Bao buns, classic and vegetable rolls, poke bowls and ramen, to tempura, bento boxes and the delectable sushi… almost anything your palate might desire from the cuisine of southeast Asia can be savored.
At The Wine Thief you won’t have to wiggle your way through a maze of boxes. The spacious and well-appointed shop on Crown Street is a joy to explore. The knowledgeable staff helps you find the wine and spirits from the expertly curated collection.
It is rare in the wine and spirits world to find an owner and business so dedicated and focused on supporting, and buying from, small-batch and family producers from around the globe. Find yourself here, you’ll be impressed.
The Elm City Market, reopening in its new space in 2025, has a wide selection of natural foods, organic, gluten-free, vegan and keto and hard-to-find healthy products. Need a quick meal on the run… The extensive, prepared, and grab-and-go food section has what you crave.
For the finest dining experience, make a reservation at Olea. Chef Manuel’s culinary expertise, an interpretation of Spanish and Mediterranean cuisine, can be tasted and seen in every dish. If the tasting menu is available, you’re in for a culinary experience that won’t be forgotten. This is an exquisite experience and should not be missed.
For the best panoramic views of New Haven and Yale University, John Davenports, located on the 19th floor of the Omni New Haven Hotel at Yale, is the place to enjoy a meal prepared by Executive Chef Brian Killian, who was born and raised in Philadelphia. Bar 19, adjacent to the restaurant, is the perfect place to cozy up for an evening cocktail.
Where to stay in downtown New Haven
• Omni New Haven Hotel at Yale
• New Haven Hotel
• The Study Hotel
• The Graduate
• The Blake Hotel
• For more lodging and things to do go to https://www.visitnewhaven.com.
Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.
