Cyprus wines well matched at new Paphos restaurant
In Carlo Collodi’s classic novel Pinocchio, Geppetto is an elderly woodcarver and the creator of Pinocchio. Geppetto’s love for Pinocchio is evident throughout the story, as he sacrifices his own comfort and wellbeing to provide for his wooden son. Geppetto is also the name of the restaurant at the new M Boutique hotel in Kato Paphos, inspired by the kind father of the owner of the restaurant.
Geppetto’s cuisine is modern Mediterranean with a Middle Eastern influence, centred on the philosophy of ‘farm to table’. Perfect for pairing with wine, perfect for Cyprus wines while the honour for the first wine and dine experience was for Kashika’s Vasilikon Winery, the royal eagle of Akamas.
Vasilikon
While even non-wine-drinkers have heard of Vasilikon (Vasilikon and Ayios Onoufrios are popular wines along with the iconic Methy), the man behind it and winemaker Aphrodite Constanti –along with the new generation in Demetra, Elpida and Kyriakos – are not household names, testament to the commitment to pursue a common dream quietly and in their own way.
It is one of the first local wineries in Cyprus, established in 1993 by three brothers from Kathikas – Herakles, Georgios and Yiannis. For six years they produced Xynisteri-based dry white Vasilikon, named after the extinct Royal Eagle of Akamas. The second, a red blend, was Ayios Onoufrios. I remember arriving late in the afternoon at the old winery cellar door to try their two wines, 1996 Xynisteri and 1995 red. They were a revelation. I had tasted good Xynisteri, but never anything quite like this before.
Yiannis claims he is not commercially minded. But he knew that there would be a market for more of this style of wine. The fresh, vibrant flavours suit the culture and the climate well and it was a style of wine that no-one had seen in Cyprus yet. Soon, the brothers started to look for more vineyards. Methy Cabernet hit the market with its first vintage 1999. Methy gave the winery and Kathikas terroir credibility. The new winery opened in 2010, and people started taking them seriously.
Einalia Rosé was released in 2011, followed in 2014 by the Aeon Maratheftiko and in 2015 Vasilikon Lefkadha, oaky, full-bodied reds in limited quantities. Yiannis describes the way they cultivate the land as “grandpa farming”, not exactly organic though. Aphrodite feels that good winemaking is all about returning to a simple approach, allowing grapes to turn into wine, courageously monitoring a natural process and engaging with the land rather than interfering with the wine. The same philosophy is applied to most of their partner vignerons. True to their beliefs, the indigenous Vasilikon Vasilissa was released and last year the cosmopolitan Sauvignon Blanc in limited quantities.
The final chapter sees a venture in single vineyards, but back to Geppetto and a taste of the wines that were matched by manager and sommelier Panayiotis Daniel.
2023 Kathikas Vasilikon Xynisteri, PGI Pafos, ABV 12%
This is a vintage every winemaker is raving about as one of the best for white wines. This maritime-influenced Xynisteri has a light yellow colour with greenish tint, and shines with aromas of nectarine, lime and grapefruit zest, herbs and freshly cut grass. There are hints of stone fruit and white flowers too. More stone fruit, grapefruit peel, wet stone and high-toned acidity takes shape for a clean mouthfeel in this medium-bodied, dry white. Served with Amuse Bouche Spinach Ricotta Spanakopita with Parmesan spinach powder. €9
2018 Kathikas Vasilikon Xynisteri, PGI Pafos, ABV 12%
What a treat, an aged Xynisteri, a six-year-old gem. Light yellow colour with medium aromatic intensity with notes of fennel and boxwood, along with hints of ripe tropical fruits and citrus and some earthy, white mushroom aromas in the background. On the palate, it is cheerful and marked by its varietal character, crispiness lurking along with good acidity. Perfect with potato dream smoked potato egg yolk, potato cream croquette. €10
2021 Kathikas Vasilikon Winery Ayios Onoufrios, PGI Pafos, ABV 13%
Dry, red blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lefkada, Cabernet Franc. Ruby red colour, the wine opens with refined notes of racy red plum, raspberry, hints of cocoa and tea leaves, fresh mint and lavender. The flavours are layered with dark fruit and blackcurrant, raisin and fig reduction, dark plum and spice, the texture is angular with supple tannins leading to a smooth finish. Very daring and a very good matching served slightly cooler than usual with sea bass onion cream clams in butter sauce. €9
2019 Kathikas Vasilikon Winery Aeon Maratheftiko, PGI Pafos, ABV 14%
Aged in French oak, with a vivid purple colour, this is savoury, bold and structured wine, with a firm foundation. Hints of dried herbs, blackberry and black cherry. The flavours are deeply concentrated and match the nose. Freshness and acidity followed by silky textures and refined, elegant tannins. Served with chicken breast, cauliflower couscous and tagine sauce. €18
2019 Vasilikon Winery Lefkada, PGI Pafos, ABV 14%
Also matured in French oak, this ruby red Lefkada-based wine has a dominant note of ripe dark fruit and spice exploding from the glass. Add some dark cherry, and a touch of cocoa powder. The subtle and seamless tannins are not heavy on the palate, but clean and pure. Full-bodied, the finish is both rich and acid-laced, making it truly satisfying and refreshing. Well matched with duck breast, spiced apple, duck liver parfait in Madeira sauce. €13
The dessert was served with Pink Sangria made from the Einalia Rosé.
