Each year the indigenous Cyprus variety has a day dedicated to it
December 1 is officially the international day of Maratheftiko, and this year an event will be held on Thursday at the Elea Golf Club House in Paphos including a wine exhibition, a masterclass with Angela Muir MW, oenologist Marcos Zambartas and myself. After the masterclass, the Elea culinary team will prepare a five-course dinner.
Scattered around the island’s vineyards, the Maratheftiko red grape variety is the ‘old guard’ of indigenous Cypriot red varieties. It is mostly concentrated in the Vouni Panayias and Ambelitis region of Paphos and Pitsilia. The synonym for Maratheftiko in that part is Vamvakada, or Vamvakia, which means cotton, referring to Maratheftiko’s downy, greenish white young leaves with a fluffy underside that looks like cotton.
Only around five per cent of all vineyards in Cyprus are planted with this variety, Cypriot producers are betting on it. Cyprus is the only country that produces Maratheftiko, which can happily compete with many of the nobler imported cultivars when the grapes are allowed to ripen adequately.
The grape has medium clusters and small to medium berries with thick skin. It produces balanced, strong-bodied and coloured wines with distinctive, faintly fruity aromas of cherries and blackberries. Occasionally, the high acidity of Maratheftiko wines demand oenological intervention to reduce it. Usually, Maratheftiko is aged in oak casks before bottling.
2023 Aes Ambelis Winery Nymfes, PGI Lefkosia, Abv 13% organic
This wine is made from 100% Maratheftiko. Brilliant strawberry colour, it opens with typical rosé notes, wild strawberry, pomegranate and raspberry, some peach and guava on the tropical side and rhubarb on the vegetal site, and a very discrete scent of white pepper. Wonderful creaminess and length on the palate with long and crisp red fruit flavours. Good tannic structure for a rosé, zip and tense texture, good acidity and pink grapefruit aftertaste. Enjoy with a selection of cheeses, deli meats and pâtés. €16
2023 Ezousa Winery Eros, PGI Pafos, Abv 13.5%
The first Maratheftiko rosé in Cyprus, with a bright pink colour, red and dark berry, floral, citrus zest and succulent herb qualities on the deeply perfumed nose, as well as hints of minerals and baking spices. Concentrated, offering black raspberry, cherry and blood orange flavours and a suave touch of candied lavender. The mineral and spice notes drive a strikingly long, gently chewy finish that echoes the floral and blood orange notes. Food matching potential is endless, mushroom risotto and seafood paellas come to mind. €8
2023 Gerolemo Winery Maratheftiko Medium Sweet Rosé, Abv 14%
Pale and delicate pink, fruity, floral, red plum, golden apple and cherry, hibiscus tea, very brisk acidity, that is highly mouthwatering yet it has a very long finish. Despite the varietal differences, the net result is a remarkable wine, exuberant, lively and fragrant on the palate. Perfect with avocado and shrimp salad, tart of cream cheese or light in spice Asian dishes. €12
2022 Tsiakkas Winery, Vamvakada, P.G.I. Lemesos, Abv 14%
Vamvakada is kept in 70% French Oak and 30% American oak for at least 13 months. It is medium dark in colour with a red hue. Varietal aromas of black plum, dark cherries and violet meld with the light barrel signature of baking spices. Bright fruit tones with the addition of red fruit and hibiscus flower. This wine is lively, with expressive tannins on the palate and cascades to a lengthy, red-fruit finish. I enjoyed it with roast herbed chicken with garlic and thyme, and Shepherd’s pie. This modern style Maratheftiko is also perfect with grilled lamb chops or meatloaf. €16.50
2021 Nelion Winery, Maratheftiko, P.G.I. Pafos, Abv 14%
Fruit sourced from a single vineyard at 800m, treated with malolactic fermentation and kept for 12 months in French oak barrels. Deep red colour with violet hints, this Maratheftiko starts with floral hints and rich blackberries and blackcurrants, fruit, liquorice and hints of vanilla. Gentle tannins and vanilla notes, all spice, dark cherry and red currant flavours round out an enjoyable soft finish. Serve with aged cheese, roast lamb, mild spiced roast pork. €22
2018 Malia Winery, Heritage, P.G.I. Limassol, Abv 13%
A legendary red with a beautifully designed label of a dark horse running with a medieval castle in the background. A dry red wine with a dark crimson colour and gorgeous aromas of plush dark fruit, blackcurrant, cherry and plum tart with notes of Asian spice and forest floor, vanilla with hints of milk chocolate. Medium to full-bodied, round with soft tannins with dark fruit on the mid-palate with notes of cinnamon bark and clove. The wine endures in length and texture, with a finishing touch of black pepper. With an accent of oak, it should match beautifully with a juicy grilled T-Bone steak. €15
2021 Aes Ambelis Winery, Omiros, PGI Abv 14%
Made from vineyards in Paphos and kept in French oak for eight months and one year in the bottle. It has an intense ruby colour with scents of blackcurrant, ripe prune, dark plum, rose and violet with a whisper of mint chocolate, penetrating notes of sage and bay leaves as well as espresso. Full, velvety, but smooth and lingering on the palate; fruit flavours, tannins and light acidity are in harmonious balance. This full-bodied wine offers juicy black cherry, blackberry, ground pepper, mint and light mineral vein. Enjoy with grilled meats especially honey soy grilled pork chop or Lamb on skewers and couscous tabbouleh. Also, it will be great with hearty vegetable dishes like vegetable pizza or pasta like orzo with tomato sauce and aubergine. €15
Maratheftiko Wine Exhibition
Pre-booking is essential. €20 euros per person, including wine tastings and canapés for the exhibition, and €40 for the masterclass (including the exhibition), €80 for the gala dinner. [email protected] or call 99 254491
